Pure Hyaluronic Acid      

Decoding the cosmetics box

Date: 9th December 2008, Source: Hyaluronic News

BAFFLED BY THE LONG LIST of archaic-sounding terms in just about every box of face cream, powder or lotion out there? We decode five commonly found ingredients to give you a head start on your next beauty-shopping trip.


Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide

These two are mostly found in anti-acne and oil-control products like spot treatment gels, face soaps and drying sprays. Both have dehydrating and disinfecting properties suited for infected bumps and blemishes.

Benzoyl peroxide slowly releases oxygen, which has an antibacterial effect. Salicylic acid, meanwhile, helps break down blackheads and whiteheads by slowing down the shedding of cells inside the follicles, preventing clogging of pores.

Avoid if... you experience irritation, stinging and other adverse skin reactions. While it is normal to experience a little
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dryness and slight peeling, too much redness around the treated area may be a sign of an allergy, or the result of too much sun exposure. Discontinue use and see a dermatologist.

All boxed in: Panoxyl Gel, Clinique Anti-Blemish Solutions Spot Treatment Gel, Benzac AC Gel, Awake Acne Clear Spots


Glycerin

Glycerin is a humectant, a substance that attracts moisture to the skin. It also absorbs water from the air (which explains the miniscule beads and bubbles found in glycerin-based soaps when left in the bathroom sink for extended periods). Because of its moisture-attracting characteristic, this ingredient softens and goes on gentle even on the most sensitive complexions.

Avoid if... you are extremely prone to allergies. Otherwise, Glycerol (the pure chemical product) is proven to be gentle and safe on your skin.

All boxed in: Celeteque Facial Wash, Neutrogena Facial Bar, most lotions and face creams

Alpha hydroxy acids

These are derived from fruit and milk sugars (like glycolic, lactic and citric acids) which loosen and hasten the shedding of dead skin cells—mostly caused by sun damage—and encourage collagen and elastin regeneration, over prolonged use.

“AHA preparations are recommended for those whose skin is showing signs of aging. Fine lines, brown marks and dry spots can improve with regular applications or peels. Glycolic acid may also prove helpful for those prone to acne,” according to findings by the New Zealand Dermatological Society Incorporated (dermnetnz.org).

Avoid if... you plan to go under the sun for an extended period. AHAs are extremely photosensitive. They can trigger skin darkening and irritation when exposed to heat and sunlight. If you must, apply AHA-based creams at night, and make sure to slather on sunscreen liberally when heading out.

All boxed in: BeautiControl Extreme Repair Hand Therapy, Avon Anew, Estée Lauder Fruition

Peptides (di-, tri-,hexa- and penta-)

Of the recent slew of anti-wrinkle creams launched in the market, a handful contain a group of amino acids called peptides, which are said to have skin-renewing and firming properties by encouraging collagen production to “melt away” fine lines and wrinkles—without having to go through invasive surgery.

Avoid if... you’re in your teens and 20s. Your top priority at this stage is to develop proper skincare habits of cleansing, toning, moisturizing, undereye hydration and sun protection.

Unless ingested in high doses, peptides have no known serious side effects. But as with any topical preparation, discontinue use if your skin experiences an adverse reaction.

All boxed in: Lancôme Rénergie Microlift Active Redefining Treatment, Estee Lauder Perfectionist CP+, Philosophy Makeup Optional Skincare System


Hyaluronic acid

While hyaluronic acid is present in every tissue of the body, it depletes in time, resulting in moisture loss and the thinning and aging of skin. Cosmetics companies have found that incorporating hyaluronic acid in facial-care products improves elasticity and helps fight wrinkles by helping skin retain more water.

It can also be injected to temporarily fill in facial lines and furrows, with results lasting from 3-9 months.

Avoid if... you have existing connective tissue disorders, special nutritional needs, or are undergoing medical treatment. Consult with your doctor if you plan to take hyaluronic acid supplements or use face creams enhanced with this ingredient (a medical expert would know how much of it you would need to treat a particular tissue condition, and in what form to administer it).

You may want to double up on face-saving products if you smoke, as cigarette smoke degrades the hyaluronic acid present in your skin. The smarter option would be to avoid smoking altogether to improve your overall health.

All boxed in... (topical) Shiseido Benefiance Light Daytime Protective Emulsion and Energizing Essence, Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Intensive Eye Cream and Night Cream, and (injectible) Restylane and Perlane.