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Trying to weigh the benefits of the many skin-care creams is enough to age a person
Date: 13th October 2005, Source: Hyaluronic News
With squinting eyes and furrowed brow, Linda Morrison stood in the middle of the drugstore skin-care aisle, rubbing the forehead crease she hoped to banish.
"All I want is something to make my skin look a little better. But, it's so confusing," says the petite 46-year-old San Diego woman. "I see the ads, I read the labels, but I'm not sure which (ingredients) really work or if anything really works. How am I supposed to know what's best for my skin?"
Welcome to the agony and the ecstasy of modern skin care. Today there are more anti-aging skin-care products with potentially beneficial ingredients than ever before. Unfortunately, the stress of deciphering the labels and determining which are right for you is enough to cause new wrinkles.
"This is a very exciting time for skin care. The product research is very impressive," says Paula Begoun, cosmetics watchdog, author of "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me" and maker of Paula's Choice products. "The problem is, it's become rocket science and very difficult to understand."
Try reading the ingredients list on the back of a jar of skin cream. The long list of multisyllabic words can be barely pronounced, let alone understood by the average consumer.
To ease confusion and boost sales, marketing-savvy manufacturers promote ingredient buzz words like retinol, vitamin C, antioxidants, copper and peptides. But, nowhere on the label is an explanation of what these agents are, how they work or if they're really major players in the formulation.
"Too often, the skin creams that are most popular are the ones with the most marketing, not with the most research," says Dr. Mitchel Goldman, a La Jolla dermatologist who has his own skin-care product line, Spa MD, available in some dermatologists' offices.
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The widely hyped StriVectin-SD cream, which has run full-page advertisements in magazines and newspapers touting its anti-wrinkling ability, has been the No. 1-selling prestige skin cream in the world for the last two years. Originally used as an antidote for stretch marks, the patented peptide solution asks the question, "Better than Botox?"
Not only do dermatologists often disagree with product advertising claims, but they also frequently disagree with one another on the effectiveness of certain ingredients. Goldman calls copper a "meaningless" skin-care ingredient, while Del Mar dermatologist Dr. Deborah Atkin believes it can be beneficial in preventing the degradation of collagen and decreasing inflammation.
So what's a poor consumer who just wants to minimize her crow's feet supposed to do?
First, make sure your expectations are realistic. There is no magic potion that will erase 20 years from your face. If there were, it'd be available only by prescription, and we'd all be knocking down our doctors' doors to get the stuff.
"These anti-aging creams won't so much reverse the aging process and make you look younger as much as they simply slow down the aging process," Atkin says. "It's usually very subtle and gradual."
Even with the very best products and ingredients, the most improvement anyone can hope to see is about 30 percent after six to eight weeks, skin experts say, and that's only as long as you continue to use the product. It's also important to do your homework. Although it can be tough to get definitive information about popular skin-care ingredients, at least become familiar with what they are and what they possibly can offer.
"If you want anything more than that, you'll need to come to us for more than a skin cream," Goldman says.
SOME INGREDIENTS' IMPACT MAY NOT EVEN BE SKIN DEEP
To aid you in your anti-aging skin-care quest, the following list offers definitions of some of today's hottest skin-product ingredients along with claims, skin experts' opinions and product examples.
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PEPTIDES
The short chains of amino acids are supposed to stimulate skin metabolism and signal the skin to repair itself. Some dermatologists are doubtful. "It's more likely peptides work as carrier agents, helping other ingredients get absorbed into the skin," says Dr. Deborah Atkin, a Del Mar dermatologist, who has seen little clinical evidence that peptides can stimulate collagen.
However, cosmetics consumer advocate and author Paula Begoun says peptides are "cell communicating ingredients that can tell the skin cells to behave better and start making healthier skin. And, the skin cells listen," she says, crediting peptides for making Olay Regenerist "one of the best anti-aging products on the market."
Products: Olay Regenerist, 2.5 ounces, $20; L'Oreal Age Perfect Anti-Sagging and Ultra Hydrating Night Cream, 2.5 ounces, $16.59; Lancome Renergie Microlift, 1.7 ounces, $74; StriVectin-SD Intensive Repair, 6 ounces, $135.
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COENZYME Q10 (COQ10)
An antioxidant that's supposed to scavenge for free radicals, cell-destroying elements from the sun, smoke and other environmental pollutants that can cause wrinkling, irritation and even cancer. CoQ10 may also decrease sun damage in the skin.
"This valuable antioxidant is commonly placed in skin creams and meant to rejuvenate the skin," says La Jolla dermatologist Dr. Richard Fitzpatrick, whose product line is called SkinMedica. "But, just how much clinical effect it has on the skin is debatable."
Products: Nivea Visage CoEnzyme Q10 Wrinkle Control, 1.7 ounces, $11.50; Eucerin Q10 Anti-Wrinkle Lotion, 4 ounces, $10.99; Juvena Power Night, 1 ounce, $58.
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AHA
Acronym for alpha hydroxy acids, including glycolic and lactic acid, AHAs help exfoliate the skin. Beta hydroxy acid or salicylic acid is a bit more drying and used as an exfoliant and anti-inflammatory for acne-prone skin.
Dermatologists agree that AHAs do a decent exfoliating job, but they don't give them much credit as an anti-aging ingredient.
"Alpha hydroxy acids increase cellular turnover and give a temporary clearing of the skin by unclogging pores," says Dr. Mitchel Goldman, La Jolla dermatologist. "But, it hasn't been found to produce collagen, and it can be very drying and irritating. It's not for sensitive skin."
Products: Alpha Hydrox AHA Enhanced Creme Anti-Wrinkle Exfoliant, 2 ounces, $10.99; SkinCeuticals C+AHA, 1 ounce, $115.
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RETINOL
This derivative of vitamin A is the weaker sister of tretinoin (retinoic acid) in prescription wrinkle creams Retin-A and Renova. Under the right conditions, retinol can become tretinoin in the skin and may improve the skin's appearance by regenerating collagen. Retinol may also lighten freckles and dark spots associated with aging and sun damage.
According to skin experts, retinol is one the most effective anti-aging ingredients.
"Retinoic acid can positively reverse signs of aging on a molecular level and help rejuvenate the skin. The problem is it's irritating," Goldman says. "Retinols are a less-irritating version, but it's difficult to get them to penetrate the skin to act at a cellular level." For best absorption, Atkin recommends that retinol be in the proper form, retinyl palmitate, a combination of retinol and palmitic acid.
Products: L'Oreal Revitalift Anti-Wrinkle and Firming Cream, 1.7 ounces, $14; Roc Deep Wrinkle Night Cream, 1 ounce, $20; N.V. Perricone Evening Facial Emollient, 2 ounces, $85.
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GREEN TEA/WHITE TEA
Tea (black, green and white) is a potent antioxidant that can fend off free radicals. Dermatologists are optimistic about teas as a beneficial skin-care ingredient.
"I like both green tea and white tea very much, and I'd look for either of them in skin-care products," Goldman says.
Atkin adds that green tea may cause a decrease in inflammation and swelling, while white teas have been known to decrease the effects of UV exposure. Products: Denise Austin Skin Cell Serum, 1.7 ounces, $11.99; Origins A Perfect World, 1.7 ounces, $35; Dermalogica Daily Resurfacer, 35 doses, $65.
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COPPER
This metal in the form of copper peptides is supposed to aid in wound healing.
Skin doctors give it mixed reviews. Some believe it can help prevent the degradation of collagen and reduce skin inflammation. Others are skeptical because there's a lack of clinical evidence. And, Goldman calls it "just a marketing blitz."
Products: Neutrogena Visibly Firm, 1.7 ounces, $20.99; Osmotics Blue Copper 5, 2 ounces, $55.
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VITAMIN C
This potent antioxidant protects the skin from free radicals, unstable molecules that are believed to be the source of much of the skin-cell damage that leads to skin aging and cancer. Topically applied vitamin C and other antioxidants may boost collagen, improving skin texture, tone and firmness.
Vitamin C is one of skin experts' favorite skin-care ingredients.
"Never buy a a skin cream that's not loaded with great potent stable antioxidents like vitamin C," Begoun says. Fitzpatrick agrees, calling it "essential in any skin cream" and "significantly beneficial in stimulating collagen and helping protect against sun damage."
Goldman recommends using the L-ascorbic acid form of vitamin C for best absorption.
Products: L'Oreal Transformance Skin Solution, 1 ounce, $16.59; Murad Essential C Daily Renewal Complex, 1 ounce, $82; Cellex-C Advanced-C Serum, 30 milliliters, $90.
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KINETIN
A plant hormone that acts as a humectant and may offer some temporary hydrating benefits.
Atkin has seen no long-term benefits with kinetin use. Two other dermatologists interviewed were unfamiliar with it, noting that there are no published clinical studies on kinetin.
Products: Almay Kinetin Age Decelerating Cream, 1.6 ounces, $14.99; Kinerase Cream, 2.8 ounces, $117.
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HYALURONIC ACID
A component of connective skin tissue, it's been used successfully as an injected lubricant to counter osteoarthritis and other physical maladies. It acts as a powerful humectant, attacking 1,000 times its weight in water. Applied topically, it may plump up the skin.
Currently only in high-end skin products, some skin pros think hyaluronic acid has real potential.
"I'm a big fan of hyaluronic acid," Fitzpatrick says. "It's a complex sugar that binds water and is a good hydrating agent."
Atkin and Goldman are doubtful about its long-lasting value. Products: Murad Night Reform Treatment, 1 ounce, $58; DDF C3-Plus Serum, .5 ounce, $60; Remede Complete Treatment Anti-Aging Wrinkle Control, 1.7 ounces, $95.
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SOY
This antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent may soothe the skin when applied topically.
Skin experts aren't overly excited about soy, noting that it's botanically-based estrogen and there's some evidence that it may have some mild skin rejuvenating effects.
Products: Neutrogena Visibly Even, 1.7 ounces, $12.99; Aveeno Positively Radiant, 4 ounces, $13.99; Roc Age Diminishing Daily Moisturizer, 3 ounces, $16.
All skin-care cream prices may vary.
